B3 3.2 Touring No.36 Bodywork time, 13 style

Thought we'd tempt out our budding photographers. Share your photos. We'll add different themes from time to time.
shaziman
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Location: Essex, occasionally S.Wales/Leicester

Fri Nov 10, 2017 8:26 am

Did a little job yesterday, turned out to be a bit more than originally planned, but at least its another job ticked off.

After the initial dramas with the sound system, i hadn't fitted the head unit in fully due to not having fitted the DAB aerial. However, since i picked up the car, there was no radio reception, so now it was doing my head in. Using the car as a daily, means that in Essex at least, the commuting traffic is very unpredictable, and if you stick to the same route everyday, you will get stuck at least 3 days out of 5, so i needed the TA to work on the head unit.

So out came the unit, and i checked the power feed to the aerial, as on E36's this is usually the culprit. 11.52v on the output of the radio and also on the white wire feeding the aerial. So i then checked the aerial end of the wire, 11.52v here too. So power was not the issue. I had attached a signal booster, which too took power, and this was working OK too. So It can only be coaxial (aerial) cable related. fiddled with this and initially nothing changed, but then all of a sudden, at a very strange angle, it began to work. I was all up for just connecting the DAB aerial and forgetting about it just before it came to life. So several minutes went by whilst i fiddled with it, and then i found:

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The insulator section that stops the signal wire earthing out on the outer wires was not seated.

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Here, you should be able to see thew signal wire, earthing its signal to the metal outer. What has happened, with all the radio fiddling over the years, the signal cable that is normally soldered to the middle prong in the connector, had come away, and caused the wire to get bent over and earthed its signal.

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Opened it all up to put the wire back in place.

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The insulator and center core. As soon as i went to straighten it, the outer part in the photo broke off, and the signal wire did too. so no choice, new connector. However, it occurred to me that all the decent aftermarket radio's don't use the small aerial connector, they use the longer one that goes directly in to the radio itself. They can always be converted, but i think that was the reason why it broke in the first place.

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So i rewired it directly in to the correct and preferred aerial type and it was sorted.

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Fitted LED's for more light in the side lights and will fit my HID's over the weekend. 50:50.

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Done, Nice and bright.

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Oh and DAB aerial now fitted.

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Mint rims doing its thing well!
1995 E36 B3.0 Convertible (rebodied)
1996 E36 B3.2 Touring No:20 - 1 of 5 made
1997 E36 B3.2 Touring No:36 - 1 of 5 made
Alpina, BMW and Detailing Enthusiast
bss325i
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Location: Surrey, England

Sun Nov 12, 2017 5:40 pm

Impressive stuff!

Good to see its gone to a good home, was tempted to buy it myself on more than one occasion.

Regarding the wheel, as Simon has mentioned he caused the dent in it and it was myself who got the wheels done by lepsons for him and they did call me to speak about it before completing the refurbishment and it was deemed to risking to try and straighten in case it cracked or distorted beyond repair.
2001 E39 540i/6 Sport touring
1989 325i Sport
1986 M3
1989 325i convertible
2005 330Ci M sport coupe
shaziman
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Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2011 12:59 pm
Location: Essex, occasionally S.Wales/Leicester

Sun Nov 12, 2017 8:53 pm

So the plan yesterday was to work on the pixels on the speedo, so to do this the steering wheel has to come off, therefore Airbag, so the battery needs disconnecting. As per one of my first posts, i said that when the battery needs to be disconnected, i would whip it out and clean up under the battery. So out it came!

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Before i started, battery was quite filthy and it looked like the same under the battery.

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So as usual with old E36's, the/one of the old batteries had over spilled during operation, and caused battery acid to spill on to the metal underneath. Couple this with natural vibration of the battery, and this causes them to rot through if left unattended. Also an MOT fail. This was alot worse than it looked with the battery in.

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Firstly a good clean up of the debris

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Now you can see the perimeter of the battery rubbed against the body, or capillary action had taken place of the spilled acid and gone through the paint.

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Area wire brushed up and then treated with Rust Converter to make the metal solid again.

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Whilst this was doing its thing, it takes ages to dry completely so i left it overnight, i worked on the battery clamp bolt, as it was very stiff to remove. so attacked with a wire brush and when refitted, copper grease was used.

So on to the airbag. Some reference pictures. Airbag was filthy and had alot of ingrained dirt.

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Oh Well! Car is 21 Now!

Steering wheel was removed. I wanted to do this this weekend as i thought the steering wheel was loose, actually the splines are worn, so there is a little movement in the wheel. It was worrying me whilst driving.

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A bit of cleaning up of the airbag, you can see the stitching, but it doesn't pop like it should.

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50:50 shot of simulated steam clean, alot of dirt came out, but still not clean.

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The level of dirt coming off with just hot water

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Got to it with some fairy and a toothbrush, it came up really well. Before on the left, After on the right.


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Instrument Cluster removed

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Components removed, steering cowl is filthy!

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Can see all the original sticky tape used by Alpina to stick their gauges to the dash. Obviously this is no good anymore, someone had used hot melt glue to try and hold it, but didn't clean the area first, so it stuck to the dirt!

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A good reference shot, to know what bulbs go where!

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Instrument cluster disassembled, this is what you have to work with.

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Definitely the original cluster, build date all stacks up!

I read a DIY on how to fix the pixels issue on a forum, printed it out but can't find it online anymore. So i followed that. Firstly mark out with tape and take a brave pill before you cut! I also taped over the empty bulb holder areas, to minimise the amount of debris that could get in to the cluster.

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Used a rotary tool to cut through the plastic, in hind site, was probably a bit fast as it melted the plastic as it cut.

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This board is nearing end of life. I suspect that the actual board may need replacing, but the chip will have to be transferred. We#ll see if the repair works, and then cross that bridge when the time comes.

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These are the pins that need to be re-flowed, but i can't help thinking that it may just be a pressure thing as whenever i pressed the trip reset, the odo came up and all was well. I also tightened up the small brass screws to increase the pressure so as i applied the soldering iron, it would pull the screen closer to the board. Taking the instrument cluster out with the Alpina gauges was a freaking nightmare. Because of the cable that feeds the gauges, it jam's the cluster up. They should have used a ribbon cable!!!

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Need to put the plastic that was cut off, back together. As i thought i'd screwed up re-flowing of the pins up (as i didn't have a pencil tipped soldering iron, i used the normal chamfered fitting and to was too big) I thought i'd reattach it in a way that it could be removed easily. So i plastic welded the corners.

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All put back together and then cleaned up the clear plastic. Fully decontaminated and then treated to a clear lens ceramic coating.

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Steering Cowls needed cleaning up. so i got to it!

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Same treatment done to the Alpina Gauge cluster. This was very dirty, and there was that brown dust no only under these, but inside it and inside the instrument cluster itself!

On to today, the rust converter had done its thing, so onto protection and finishing.

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What it looked like first thing

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Quick wipe down to check i hadn't missed anything. I applied two coats of rust converter, so i should hope not.

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Roughed up, alcohol wiped and then zinc etch primed to get in to the surface.

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Painted in stone chip, i know it inside the car, but this area need protecting!

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Stone chip dried and bonded, so time for paint

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Painted Boston Green!
1995 E36 B3.0 Convertible (rebodied)
1996 E36 B3.2 Touring No:20 - 1 of 5 made
1997 E36 B3.2 Touring No:36 - 1 of 5 made
Alpina, BMW and Detailing Enthusiast
shaziman
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Location: Essex, occasionally S.Wales/Leicester

Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:24 pm

Whilst paint was drying, i got a chance to do some other jobs on the car. I order two new Exhaust hangers as the one i fitted in one of my other posts that was supplied by the previous owner, was not only the wrong one, but was absolutely useless.

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New exhaust rubbers, Bilstein so a good make and i got them at a reasonable price.

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The rubber replaced last week, was just a waste of time. Its already degraded.

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The original hanger on the other side, it works, but has gone plastic. Its not doing a good job, made worse by the fact there was one missing on the other side for a while.

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Using a bottle jack i lifted the whole exhaust up hard to the body to aid fitment, as these systems are stupidly heavy.

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This shows how far up the exhaust goes, the hanger is now effectively loose.

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Both hangers changed.

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Sorry looking old rubbers

The car had 20mm spacers on the front. Made the car handle badly and tram-lined like a pig. They had to go.

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Wheel sticking out a bit further than Alpina intended.

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Took the wheel off and saw this. What is going on here? This will be corrected SOON!

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A bit more corrosion, not good as this is within limits of the inner arch, so should be an MOT fail. Needs attention. Making a welding list as i go. Also, this houses the ABS sensor connector, so shouldn't be hanging off.

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Fixed.

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Wheel back where it should be. Wheels refitted using locking wheel bolts for added security.

Had a few starting issues last week, the gauges would go a bit mental. Usually a sign of a poor battery, but the car would start and then miss. I though that when i washed the engine bay, water may have got in to the spark plug holes in the head and earthed the spark, so i thought i'd clean them up. Whilst i was there, i would whip out the plugs and clean them up.

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Cover removed, it was filthy, so this would be cleaned up.

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That's better!

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50:50 of the trim once the main cover was treated. The rest will need to be done now!

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The plugs that should be fitted as per factory specification. Achtung Achtung!

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Car has NGK BKR6EK plugs fitted. These are equivalent to the Bosch spec. All plugs cleaned up and then refitted.

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Coil pack part numbers for reference

Once the battery was refitted, i got a chance to check out the Odo repair.

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Tense moment, but it works!

The battery issues is still bothering me. The battery went on a recon twice over the weekend, mainly as it was removed from the car, so the car wouldn't sap any of the power. During the first recon, it got to stage 5 then went back to 4, meaning it isn't holding the based 14v charge.

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So i checked the alternator charge again, and realised, as it was doing before but i missed it, it is charging at just over 14v, not at 14.4v as it should be.

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Confirmed with the multimeter. Need to shop for a regulator now. Shame as the alternator has a re-manufactured stamp on it, so if the regular is failing already, then that isn't good.

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The battery area all put back together! Looks no different! :(
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Last edited by shaziman on Mon Nov 13, 2017 6:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
1995 E36 B3.0 Convertible (rebodied)
1996 E36 B3.2 Touring No:20 - 1 of 5 made
1997 E36 B3.2 Touring No:36 - 1 of 5 made
Alpina, BMW and Detailing Enthusiast
hap
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Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:28 pm

Fantastic attention to detail the stitching came up like new
Good old fairy liquid
Adwo
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Mon Nov 13, 2017 12:17 pm

shaziman wrote:So the plan yesterday was to work on the pixels on the speedo, so to do this the steering wheel has to come off, therefore Airbag, so the battery needs disconnecting. As per one of my first posts, i said that when the battery needs to be disconnected, i would whip it out and clean up under the battery. So out it came!
w!

Steering wheel was removed. I wanted to do this this weekend as i thought the steering wheel was loose, actually the splines are worn, so there is a little movement in the wheel. It was worrying me whilst driving.

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A bit of cleaning up of the airbag, you can see the stitching, but it doesn't pop like it should.

Image

50:50 shot of simulated steam clean, alot of dirt came out, but still not clean.

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The level of dirt coming off with just hot water

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Got to it with some fairy and a toothbrush, it came up really well. Before on the left, After on the right.
Small tip to make the colors pop even more:


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I used these on the stitching in my B3 limo and the Alpina blue/green squares, now the color is back!

Cheers,

Adwo
2009 E91 B3 Biturbo #40
2006 E46 B3 S convertible #165
2000 E46 B3 3.3 limo #172
1999 Mitsubishi Evo 6 RS
simon13
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Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:45 pm

that recon alternator has done over 100,000 miles now. i'd argue that its ok and its when they drop below 14 volts you should start to worry a bit

I fitted that cable tie both sides on the front disk guards as they had both broken and rattled! You have to remove the wheel bearing to replace them. This often means the bearing dies upon removal and as they're quiet i left it like that.

Also it had BMW locking wheel nuts when it left me with two key nuts so they have been nicked!! And why 20mm spacers fitted?!
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shaziman
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Location: Essex, occasionally S.Wales/Leicester

Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:49 pm

simon13 wrote:that recon alternator has done over 100,000 miles now. i'd argue that its ok and its when they drop below 14 volts you should start to worry a bit

I fitted that cable tie both sides on the front disk guards as they had both broken and rattled! You have to remove the wheel bearing to replace them. This often means the bearing dies upon removal and as they're quiet i left it like that.

Also it had BMW locking wheel nuts when it left me with two key nuts so they have been nicked!! And why 20mm spacers fitted?!
OK, so a but of an update, the car needs a new starter motor, not a battery or alternator issue.

OK, that makes sense about the cable tie, at least they don't rattle and they are still sort of doing their job!

I refitted the lockers, one key fits the other doesn't, it's a totally different key! All back the way it should be now!

20mm spacer fitted by the previous owner. I swear if i didn't buy it, it would have become a drift machine within months!
1995 E36 B3.0 Convertible (rebodied)
1996 E36 B3.2 Touring No:20 - 1 of 5 made
1997 E36 B3.2 Touring No:36 - 1 of 5 made
Alpina, BMW and Detailing Enthusiast
hap
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Thu Nov 30, 2017 4:38 pm

Anymore work carried out shaziman??
shaziman
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Location: Essex, occasionally S.Wales/Leicester

Thu Nov 30, 2017 4:40 pm

Not as such, too cold!

Starter needs changing, but us limping along, steering UJ needs lubricating as the wheel is going heavy some days, but other than that, just driving it.

Oh, subwoofer is in now. Sounds are good!
1995 E36 B3.0 Convertible (rebodied)
1996 E36 B3.2 Touring No:20 - 1 of 5 made
1997 E36 B3.2 Touring No:36 - 1 of 5 made
Alpina, BMW and Detailing Enthusiast
simon13
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Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:32 pm

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does she look like this now?! :lol:
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shaziman
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Posts: 1330
Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2011 12:59 pm
Location: Essex, occasionally S.Wales/Leicester

Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:38 pm

Haha, a but dirty, but not quite!
1995 E36 B3.0 Convertible (rebodied)
1996 E36 B3.2 Touring No:20 - 1 of 5 made
1997 E36 B3.2 Touring No:36 - 1 of 5 made
Alpina, BMW and Detailing Enthusiast
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