Alpina B3 3.3 Coupe no 88

rattusM3 · Post by **rattusM3** » Fri Dec 08, 2017 10:32 pm

Excellent stuff

polynesian2 · Post by **polynesian2** » Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:15 am

The poorly 'pina has been at ETA again for the cam cover gasket and all of the diff and rear subframe bushes, a new guibo and centre bearing, and some suspension tweaks to ensure the wider track and a little too low nose stops rubbing on fast corners, speed bumps, freshly laid smooth Tarmac, that sort of thing.

The suspension parts I used were:

Upper spring pocket with spacer 31326769667 (rough road shims- 20mm raise)
7.5mm Spring pad lower 31331096664
15mm Rear spring pad 33531094754

The spring pads are different side to side as E46s sit lower on the offside/driver side.

Had a nice chat with ETA Matt about bikes (pedal variety) as he is building up a very quirky cannondale in the workshop and I was leaving for the station on mine. They always offer a lift to the station if they can but he was on his own and I am enjoying the variety of routes to get to Eynsford station.

The next day it was ready, and driving better than ever. It's possible to enjoy the benefits of the wider track, big brakes, new roll bar and springs and the slightly quicker rack, now that the suspension has been raised a touch and the centre bearing is fixed.

ETA replaced all of the rear subframe and diff bushes as well as the centre bearing guibo. And they replaced the cam cover gasket meaning the car doesn't fill with oil fumes on start up. Sorted.

Geoff picked us up from the station and showed my son what proper driving is- always within the limit, unnoticeable gear changes, looking way ahead on the road, which was nice as he (my son!) got to sit in C3BMW's E30 M3 trackcar when we got to the workshop, he's still beaming now I think!

polynesian2 · Post by **polynesian2** » Sun Mar 04, 2018 6:35 pm

As a thank you for the recent attention I've given it, the Alpina has communicated with me in dash lights. A little yellow one that means "a pile of lambda codes" has popped up.

I replaced the pre cat ones with Bosch about 3 years and 9k miles ago. They supposedly have a 160k life, so I'm wondering if something was disturbed while it was being worked on. The correct pre cat lambdas are part number 0258005177, 990mm in length. They're only Â£120 for a pair but I don't like replacing them without knowing what's happened. Any ideas?

Engine / Motor:
- Fault: Lambda control bank 1 control block
- Code: 0000CA
- Fault: Lambda control bank 2 control block
- Code: 0000CB
- Fault: Lambda probe signal before Kat Bank 2 min value less than threshold
- Code: 00009A
- Fault: Lambda-probe signal from a shore-Kat-min-value smaller than threshold
- Code: 000097

rc944 · Post by **rc944** » Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:35 am

could be something other than the cats. have you had any diagnostics plugged in yet? i would before doing anything else

polynesian2 · Post by **polynesian2** » Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:36 pm

Back at its second home- Wheelpower- needed an alignment again following the subtle suspension lift achieved with the BMW front rough road shims and rear spring pads (necessary since the slight lowering as a result of Eibach springs). I'd add some pictures but the image uploaded isn't working for me.

polynesian2 · Post by **polynesian2** » Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:37 pm

rc944 wrote:could be something other than the cats. have you had any diagnostics plugged in yet? i would before doing anything else

Thanks- Headed back to ETA for a diagnosis later this week.

polynesian2 · Post by **polynesian2** » Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:58 pm

lo and behold- (image uploader doesn't work for me on mobile, but is fine on my computer)

We went for a touch extra negative camber at the front, just beyond the factory spec, but nothing silly. That's the only "red" number on the final set up.

Having a poke around underneath, i spotted some weeping from the transmission sump. Will get that checked, and I may as well do a service on it as it's been 4-5 years and a huge 16,000 miles- and I live in fear of the gearbox melting.

hap · Post by **hap** » Mon Mar 05, 2018 11:01 pm

It needs the alpina badge left bootlid looks strange without
Did u put the later style rear bumper ?

polynesian2 · Post by **polynesian2** » Mon Mar 05, 2018 11:27 pm

hap wrote:It needs the alpina badge left bootlid looks strange without
Did u put the later style rear bumper ?

I agree! It needs the spoiler back on, and the badge. The boot lid was replaced due to rust, and while I thought the individual letters would be reusable, they're in a pretty bad state, and I've been holding off just in case i do the full respray- loathe to purchase new ones and then need them again.

The donor coupe also gave its bumper. I think I prefer the pre facelift but this one was in much better condition, and Jet Black is pretty rare, at least in comparison to Sapphire metallic black.

While I was underneath the car I could see evidence of all the Bilt Hamber products oozing down out of the sills. Which was good. I might finally get on top of the rust and avoid any more.

hap · Post by **hap** » Mon Mar 05, 2018 11:37 pm

My badge is corroded but little bit of autosol on a cloth gets rid of minor pitting and they come up as new

polynesian2 · Post by **polynesian2** » Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:36 pm

With the codes still present, I've had the pre cat lambdas changed and now changed the MAF and the air intake elbow, having found a tiny split in the latter. I had a couple of air boxes and MAFs on the shelf, so aside from some carb cleaner liberally sprayed, I don't know that the replacement MAF is any more functional than the original, or indeed that this is the problem. Still, these are the three parts ETA recommended to check/replace having read out the codes. My bet is that the tiny split in the rubber elbow is the culprit, but we'll see when I clear the codes tomorrow!

One side benefit of this work is that I've finally been able to rid the car of the original airbox lid with the unsightly glue marks from a k&n sticker- I could never remove it, so I've removed the lid instead!

Changing the MAF is very simple. My airbox has bolts rather than the typical BMW clips, so it's a case of unbolting, removing the two 7mm screws that hold the lid to the MAF, and then depressing the silver metal clip that connects the MAF to its cable. Loosen the jubilees and that's it. One mini tip, when you tighten the jubilee clip on the engine side of the MAF/elbow, don't sit it 180 degrees opposite its neighbour. If you do it interferes with tightening the 7mm screw that holds the MAF unit to the airbox lid. There you go, masses of brilliantly helpful info and tips on this site and that's what I have for you!

Replacement airbox lid devoid of glue marks

Replacement elbow devoid of air leaks

polynesian2 · Post by **polynesian2** » Mon Apr 09, 2018 12:45 am

adding some more pictures that the uploader wouldn't talk to on my phone earlier.

air tight elbow

Ugly glue marked old airbox lid

"new" MAF with the same part number

simon13 · Post by **simon13** » Mon Apr 09, 2018 9:33 am

my B3S needs a throttle elbow, Alpina only part and its NLA at the minute. So i've got duct tape

might have to consider aftermarket

polynesian2 · Post by **polynesian2** » Mon Apr 09, 2018 1:05 pm

simon13 wrote:my B3S needs a throttle elbow, Alpina only part and its NLA at the minute. So i've got duct tape

might have to consider aftermarket

Simon, that's a different part from the B3 3.3? If not, you're welcome to my old one, it has a minuscule crack when fully stretched and I was thinking if using rubber glue on it. To be fair, duct tape is brilliant stuff.

I cleared the codes this morning and the CEL hasn't returned. Yet!

simon13 · Post by **simon13** » Mon Apr 09, 2018 3:56 pm

its a different part number but you picture it looks very similar to mine. I'd happily try buy it off you please!

True any air leaks are not wanted as you end up with un metered air entering the engine and leaning out the mix as its coming in past the MAF.