Number plates...to screw or not to screw
Number plates...to screw or not to screw
Hi guys,
Managed to get some new no. plates done from Sytner with the logo and Alpina text - woohoo!
they are also printed on a metal backing. Question is do I use adhesive pads as the car is now or do I screw....i dont believe there are any existing holes at the rear boot lid... Concern is that metal plates wont hold with adhesive pads....the acrylic ones just about do! Advice welcome. Thanks
Managed to get some new no. plates done from Sytner with the logo and Alpina text - woohoo!
they are also printed on a metal backing. Question is do I use adhesive pads as the car is now or do I screw....i dont believe there are any existing holes at the rear boot lid... Concern is that metal plates wont hold with adhesive pads....the acrylic ones just about do! Advice welcome. Thanks
Current
2004 BMW B3S #156 (Keeper)
2015 BMW 320d F30 ED Sport (70mpg)
Previous
2011, 2016, 2018 - Kia Sportage (Rolls Royce customer care)
2011 BMW Mini Cooper (Great fun, Solid)
2007 BMW Z4M E86 Coupe (Animal)
2006 Audi A4 B7 2.0T (Good car)
2001 VW Golf GTI MK4 (Meh)
1994 Ford Escort 1.6 Zetec (light n dandy)
1992 Fiat Tipo GT (Rare fun car)
1991 Ford Orion 1.6 Ghia (beefy engine)
1984 Ford Fiesta 1.1L (Audio more expensive then car)
2004 BMW B3S #156 (Keeper)
2015 BMW 320d F30 ED Sport (70mpg)
Previous
2011, 2016, 2018 - Kia Sportage (Rolls Royce customer care)
2011 BMW Mini Cooper (Great fun, Solid)
2007 BMW Z4M E86 Coupe (Animal)
2006 Audi A4 B7 2.0T (Good car)
2001 VW Golf GTI MK4 (Meh)
1994 Ford Escort 1.6 Zetec (light n dandy)
1992 Fiat Tipo GT (Rare fun car)
1991 Ford Orion 1.6 Ghia (beefy engine)
1984 Ford Fiesta 1.1L (Audio more expensive then car)
I don't like screws and only re-use them where they have previously been used.
Just make sure you get proper number plate tape (it's cheaper to buy on a roll than pre-cut strips) and use plenty of it.
I am sure you won't but don't do what a former owner of my Father-in-law's old Lotus Carlton did and use silicone sealant. When he took the number plate off it took a number plate-sized lump of rusty steel out of the boot lid with it.
Just make sure you get proper number plate tape (it's cheaper to buy on a roll than pre-cut strips) and use plenty of it.
I am sure you won't but don't do what a former owner of my Father-in-law's old Lotus Carlton did and use silicone sealant. When he took the number plate off it took a number plate-sized lump of rusty steel out of the boot lid with it.
Regards,
James
2022 BMW X7 40d M-Sport
2019 BMW X5 M50d
2018 BMW M760Li
2017 BMW 530i M-Sport Touring (SOLD)
2012 BMW 520d ED (Gave it back)
2011 BMW 535d GT SE (SOLD)
2008 BMW 730d SE (SOLD)
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2007 D3 Touring 166 (SOLD)
2005 BMW 750i Sport (SOLD)
2005 BMW 730d Sport (SOLD)
2001 B10 V8 Touring 012/1 (SOLD)
2001 B10 V8 saloon 044/1 (SOLD)
1999 BMW 750iL (SOLD)
1997 BMW 750iL (SOLD)
James
2022 BMW X7 40d M-Sport
2019 BMW X5 M50d
2018 BMW M760Li
2017 BMW 530i M-Sport Touring (SOLD)
2012 BMW 520d ED (Gave it back)
2011 BMW 535d GT SE (SOLD)
2008 BMW 730d SE (SOLD)
2007 BMW X5 3.0d SE (SOLD)
2007 D3 Touring 166 (SOLD)
2005 BMW 750i Sport (SOLD)
2005 BMW 730d Sport (SOLD)
2001 B10 V8 Touring 012/1 (SOLD)
2001 B10 V8 saloon 044/1 (SOLD)
1999 BMW 750iL (SOLD)
1997 BMW 750iL (SOLD)
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Re: Number plates...to screw or not to screw
Under no circumstance screw these to any metal part of your car if they are indeed as you say, metal (likely aluminium alloy): they are dreadful things and cause bi-metallic corrosion, a basic physics principle. Also, they're so sharp, any vibration of the plate relative to the bodywork will cut through the paint finish. They were fitted by Sytner to my B3S when I took it over, and they're now in a metal skip where they deserve to be, and the hatch was corroded beneath the damned thing and the bugger had left a perfect outline of itself where it had worn the paint away at the edges! Luckily the hatch was replaced by Sytner under warranty.Fast3000 wrote:they are also printed on a metal backing.
Adhesive pads: plenty of, to stop them moving or contacting any metalwork EVEN THROUGH PAINT. My experience of sticky pads is, however, mixed. OK on flat painted surfaces, lousy on non-flat or those with the black plastic numberplate mounts: they keep falling off those foundations, and all mine ended up screwed.
I have contacts in other dealerships who cannot believe these thin alloy plates are supplied by a main dealership: they're a known, physically proven, hazard to your car. Tread carefully!
Current:
23MY Porsche Macan GTS in Papaya
23MY Cupra Born V3 77kW in Aurora
Previously loved:
ALPINA: E91 B3SBiturbo #127, E92 B3SBiturbo #285, E90 D3Biturbo #097, E85 Roadster S #168 & variety of 'beige' 4 and 6-cyl BMW lumps.
PORSCHE: Macan S, Cayman 981 S, Cayman 981 GTS
23MY Porsche Macan GTS in Papaya
23MY Cupra Born V3 77kW in Aurora
Previously loved:
ALPINA: E91 B3SBiturbo #127, E92 B3SBiturbo #285, E90 D3Biturbo #097, E85 Roadster S #168 & variety of 'beige' 4 and 6-cyl BMW lumps.
PORSCHE: Macan S, Cayman 981 S, Cayman 981 GTS
Re: Number plates...to screw or not to screw
Rather than pads, I tend to use external automotive trim tape (3M by preference but others work too) to mount number plates. It sticks to metal, paint or plastic without any problems and I've never had an issue with it detaching or leaving any marks on the paint when removed.ade and liz flint wrote:Adhesive pads: plenty of, to stop them moving or contacting any metalwork EVEN THROUGH PAINT. My experience of sticky pads is, however, mixed. OK on flat painted surfaces, lousy on non-flat or those with the black plastic numberplate mounts: they keep falling off those foundations, and all mine ended up screwed.
Before mounting plates I always thoroughly degrease both surfaces and ensure that I use plenty of tape with a continuous strip along the top edge and another down each of the sides to try to prevent water getting behind the plate. I then put several vertical strips along the rest of the plate.
If I need to remove a plate, I use a length of nylon fishing line to cut through the foam core of the tape and then remove any residue using Tardis and IPA.
Alpina Roadster S #320
BMW X3 F25 LCI 30d
BMW X3 F25 LCI 30d
I have a contrary view - I'm a big fan of the metal plates and bought 2 sets for each of my Alpina from Sytner. The quality of the finish and longevity is far better than acrylic. Plus they have the Alpina and Sytner logos for originality.
I never use screws, only tape and it doesn't fail. On the rear plate I make sure the tape is applied close to the outer edge so vibrations and boot slams don't cause the plate to contact the surrounding paint.
My F10 front plate curves to follow the contour of the bumper - the sticky tape holds it perfectly.
I never use screws, only tape and it doesn't fail. On the rear plate I make sure the tape is applied close to the outer edge so vibrations and boot slams don't cause the plate to contact the surrounding paint.
My F10 front plate curves to follow the contour of the bumper - the sticky tape holds it perfectly.
2019 G31 B5 Biturbo No.299
2012 F10 D5 Biturbo No.13
1993 Mercedes 190E 2.6 Sportline spec
1991 Mk1 Golf GTI Sportline cabriolet
2012 F10 D5 Biturbo No.13
1993 Mercedes 190E 2.6 Sportline spec
1991 Mk1 Golf GTI Sportline cabriolet
Re: Number plates...to screw or not to screw
Do this it's the gold standardPerryGunn wrote:Rather than pads, I tend to use external automotive trim tape (3M by preference but others work too) to mount number plates. It sticks to metal, paint or plastic without any problems and I've never had an issue with it detaching or leaving any marks on the paint when removed.ade and liz flint wrote:Adhesive pads: plenty of, to stop them moving or contacting any metalwork EVEN THROUGH PAINT. My experience of sticky pads is, however, mixed. OK on flat painted surfaces, lousy on non-flat or those with the black plastic numberplate mounts: they keep falling off those foundations, and all mine ended up screwed.
Before mounting plates I always thoroughly degrease both surfaces and ensure that I use plenty of tape with a continuous strip along the top edge and another down each of the sides to try to prevent water getting behind the plate. I then put several vertical strips along the rest of the plate.
If I need to remove a plate, I use a length of nylon fishing line to cut through the foam core of the tape and then remove any residue using Tardis and IPA.
Porsche 997.1 GT3 CS I Alpina E46 B3s Coupe I Alpina E46 B3 3.3 Touring I Ducati 749S Mono I Ducati 748R I Ducati 749 Track Bike I Ducati 916S
Thanks for the advice above. Going with automotive adhesive tape for rear for sure. Will inspect the front to see if that will work..
Current
2004 BMW B3S #156 (Keeper)
2015 BMW 320d F30 ED Sport (70mpg)
Previous
2011, 2016, 2018 - Kia Sportage (Rolls Royce customer care)
2011 BMW Mini Cooper (Great fun, Solid)
2007 BMW Z4M E86 Coupe (Animal)
2006 Audi A4 B7 2.0T (Good car)
2001 VW Golf GTI MK4 (Meh)
1994 Ford Escort 1.6 Zetec (light n dandy)
1992 Fiat Tipo GT (Rare fun car)
1991 Ford Orion 1.6 Ghia (beefy engine)
1984 Ford Fiesta 1.1L (Audio more expensive then car)
2004 BMW B3S #156 (Keeper)
2015 BMW 320d F30 ED Sport (70mpg)
Previous
2011, 2016, 2018 - Kia Sportage (Rolls Royce customer care)
2011 BMW Mini Cooper (Great fun, Solid)
2007 BMW Z4M E86 Coupe (Animal)
2006 Audi A4 B7 2.0T (Good car)
2001 VW Golf GTI MK4 (Meh)
1994 Ford Escort 1.6 Zetec (light n dandy)
1992 Fiat Tipo GT (Rare fun car)
1991 Ford Orion 1.6 Ghia (beefy engine)
1984 Ford Fiesta 1.1L (Audio more expensive then car)
It should work fine on the front of an E46 - my Roadster S has a curve on the front plate carrier and, before fitting the (plastic) front plate, I left it overnight, face-down, with the edges on wooden blocks and a weight in the centre.Fast3000 wrote:Thanks for the advice above. Going with automotive adhesive tape for rear for sure. Will inspect the front to see if that will work..
This created a gentle curve in the plate allowing it to conform better to the shape of the plate holder and avoided any tendency for the ends to try and pull away from the holder while the trim tape reached full strength (takes about 24 hours IIRC) - trim tape is so strong that I doubt if it would have been an issue but it cost me nothing to curve the plate so thought I'd do it...
Alpina Roadster S #320
BMW X3 F25 LCI 30d
BMW X3 F25 LCI 30d
Thanks guys. Perry awesome to see you still have the Alpina Zed.
I took the rear plate off last night only to find two rubber gromets that look like they will accept plastic screwes....the adhesive tape will still be useful though...
I took the rear plate off last night only to find two rubber gromets that look like they will accept plastic screwes....the adhesive tape will still be useful though...
Current
2004 BMW B3S #156 (Keeper)
2015 BMW 320d F30 ED Sport (70mpg)
Previous
2011, 2016, 2018 - Kia Sportage (Rolls Royce customer care)
2011 BMW Mini Cooper (Great fun, Solid)
2007 BMW Z4M E86 Coupe (Animal)
2006 Audi A4 B7 2.0T (Good car)
2001 VW Golf GTI MK4 (Meh)
1994 Ford Escort 1.6 Zetec (light n dandy)
1992 Fiat Tipo GT (Rare fun car)
1991 Ford Orion 1.6 Ghia (beefy engine)
1984 Ford Fiesta 1.1L (Audio more expensive then car)
2004 BMW B3S #156 (Keeper)
2015 BMW 320d F30 ED Sport (70mpg)
Previous
2011, 2016, 2018 - Kia Sportage (Rolls Royce customer care)
2011 BMW Mini Cooper (Great fun, Solid)
2007 BMW Z4M E86 Coupe (Animal)
2006 Audi A4 B7 2.0T (Good car)
2001 VW Golf GTI MK4 (Meh)
1994 Ford Escort 1.6 Zetec (light n dandy)
1992 Fiat Tipo GT (Rare fun car)
1991 Ford Orion 1.6 Ghia (beefy engine)
1984 Ford Fiesta 1.1L (Audio more expensive then car)
Yes, the rear of the RS has these as well - I still wanted a screwless look though, so I attached a plastic plate holder using plastic screws and then mounted the plate onto that using adhesive tape. You can't see them but I added a couple of soft pads to the rear of the plate holder (one at each edge) to act as a cushion if the ends vibrated and contacted the paintFast3000 wrote:Thanks guys. Perry awesome to see you still have the Alpina Zed.
I took the rear plate off last night only to find two rubber gromets that look like they will accept plastic screwes....the adhesive tape will still be useful though...
Alpina Roadster S #320
BMW X3 F25 LCI 30d
BMW X3 F25 LCI 30d
Went with no screws in the end...looks much cleaner...used plenty of padded auto automotive tape!
Cheers all.
Cheers all.
Current
2004 BMW B3S #156 (Keeper)
2015 BMW 320d F30 ED Sport (70mpg)
Previous
2011, 2016, 2018 - Kia Sportage (Rolls Royce customer care)
2011 BMW Mini Cooper (Great fun, Solid)
2007 BMW Z4M E86 Coupe (Animal)
2006 Audi A4 B7 2.0T (Good car)
2001 VW Golf GTI MK4 (Meh)
1994 Ford Escort 1.6 Zetec (light n dandy)
1992 Fiat Tipo GT (Rare fun car)
1991 Ford Orion 1.6 Ghia (beefy engine)
1984 Ford Fiesta 1.1L (Audio more expensive then car)
2004 BMW B3S #156 (Keeper)
2015 BMW 320d F30 ED Sport (70mpg)
Previous
2011, 2016, 2018 - Kia Sportage (Rolls Royce customer care)
2011 BMW Mini Cooper (Great fun, Solid)
2007 BMW Z4M E86 Coupe (Animal)
2006 Audi A4 B7 2.0T (Good car)
2001 VW Golf GTI MK4 (Meh)
1994 Ford Escort 1.6 Zetec (light n dandy)
1992 Fiat Tipo GT (Rare fun car)
1991 Ford Orion 1.6 Ghia (beefy engine)
1984 Ford Fiesta 1.1L (Audio more expensive then car)